Sunday, February 6, 2011

Getting Back to Climbing, Week 3

Saturday: rest day
Sunday, Monday and Tuesday: hang board
Wednesday: Family Gym Night
Thursday: rest day
Friday: Family Gym Night

Yes, I am feeling motivated.  Finally.  Not only did I actually make it to the rock climbing gym twice this week, but I also got on that damn hang board three days.  The weird elbow tendon issue from last Friday night resolved itself in about two days, which is fabulous.
I am trying to find some success and peace with the hang board... I think I am getting closer.  The thing is, I am not strong enough yet to rip through a bunch of pull ups on it, so I need to find focus on another activity up there.  What I decided to work on was my core; core strength was one of my strengths as a climber... before having it blown out while pregnant, and then really damaged with an emergency c-section.  So, I have been doing 'crunches' while on the hang board.  This seems to be a good system for me, it works my grip strength and core.
Last weekend, John set a sweet boulder problem.  Long traverse with a strong slightly overhanging finish.  I worked this on Wednesday night.  As usual, the delicate traverse was easy for me, and the overhang finish with big moves was more challenging.  By the end of the night, I got to the finish hold, but didn't stick it and went crashing down to the pad 15' below me.  The good news is that the flapper I got is almost healed already.  It will go next week.
Friday at the gym was chaos.  A college class was there and two birthday parties.  The cave was crowded and the whole gym was just noisy.  I am not motivated by crowds, or even other people.  When I was still working, before I got pregnant, I went to the gym straight from work.  I would get there by three, when I had the place mostly to myself.  Me and my iPod.  Made it out of there before everyone else came in.  So, the crowded gym on Friday was not my ideal.  I am making progress on the new big move overhanging boulder problems I started to work last week.
It seems like my grip was weak on Friday.  My hands seemed to be pumped out by the end of some of the problems.  I am thinking that it could be from the hang board.  That is a great thing... making me stronger.
Lately, I have been dreaming of Joshua Tree.  Before the Kid winter road trips were to JT, spring was Yosemite, and then all season at the Gunks.  No road trips this year, money is tight... so I am counting the days till the Gunks.  All of my old projects are there waiting for me.

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